Beyond the Temples: Cultural encounters, scenic detours, and the rhythm of the road.
The Shikoku Henro is more than just a visit to 88 sacred sites; it is a profound immersion into the local life, history, and landscapes of Shikoku. This category, “Pilgrimage Side Story,” captures the essential moments that happen between the temples—the detours to historic castle towns like Uwajima and Ozu, the soothing waters of Dogo Onsen, and the simple joy of tasting authentic Sanuki Udon.
From deep conversations with fellow pilgrims to the unexpected beauty of snowy mountain passes and coastal ferries, these stories highlight the cultural richness of the trail. Discover the “hidden” side of the pilgrimage, including the final Orei-mairi (gratitude visit) to Mt. Koya, and see how the journey transforms from a physical trek into a lifetime of memories.
While walking, I find this orange offered as Osettai – people offer food/drink etc for walking pilgrims as genuine hospitality, I accept one with gratitude, since I’m indeed hungry. It is chilled and tasty, and I feel energized. After a while, a car running opposite late suddenly stopped. Then a driver inside opened the door, …
No.23 Yakuo-ji is the last sacred temple in Awa-no-kuni (Tokushima prefecture) which is said to be the place of spiritual awakening (No.1 – No.23). The next temple in Tosa-no-kuni (Kochi prefecture) is located 75.4 Km away from here! Tosa-no-kuni is said to be the place of ascetic training (No.24 – No.39) I feel that the …
My old friend thought that I wouldn’t be able to move from Saba-Daishi Yashiro-ji, so he seems to be surprised when he heard from me that I’m already walking towards cape Muroto. We promised to meet at Kaifu station, where the Henro route will meet again with route 55. Before I arrive at the station, …
I expected to eat lunch at the restaurant in the road station Kira Messe Muroto (the seafood must be very good), however, it was unfortunately still under construction (it will be open 2 – 3 days later…too bad). So I took lunch box which the landlady of guest house Shiina has kindly made for me …
Continue reading “Day 9: Walk around the street of old Kiragawa town (吉良川の町並み)”
From now on, I’ll walk along the ocean all the way. Rugged coastline was now decreased, and I now saw many beaches instead. I also saw a lot of tetrapod around this area. Henro route runs in parallel with the Tosa Kuroshio Railway from Nahari and the route 55. The size of the Pacific Ocean …
On the way back from Seiryu-ji temple, I passed three walking pilgrims. I was a little surprised that there were quite a few walking pilgrims who I had never passed before. But then, I also thought that it could be natural because majority of the pilgrims are walking in the same direction with almost same …
Continue reading “Day 13: Take ferry to Yokonami from Umetate”
From Yokonami ferry port, it was a pleasant nice walk while seeing beautiful Uranouchi bay. While I thought there were several unattended ponkan mandarin marketplace here and there, I suddenly found this tree saying that it’s for osettai. Unfortunately, there’re no orange available :). In Kochi, some of the temples are located quite far in …
The Henro trail to the Nanako pass was basically gentle climb up to the middle. However, there was a series of pretty tough climbs at the end of the trail, so I was really exhausted. But the view from Nanako pass is really nice, and all the fatigues has gone 🙂 Due to the last …
Continue reading “Day 14: Walk to the road station Aguri Kubokawa”
Ukitsu beach that can be seen from route 56 is quite beautiful, but due to this weather, it looks dreary. I stopped by the road station, BIOS Ogata. It was interesting to see what they offered, but it was too early for lunch hence I didn’t buy anything. I followed the route 56 to Shimanto …
I first met him on the way back from No.36 Seiryuu-ji. We stayed at the same hotel Kobushi-no-sato yesterday, and even today at Lodge Camellia. Moreover, he has a similar plan as he is going to stay here two nights in a row and is planning to come back tomorrow after visiting No.38 Kongofuku-ji. What …
Continue reading “Day 15: Talk with the pilgrim I met a few times along the way”
I could see really beautiful sunrise at the Shimonokae coast, but unfortunately, the sun rose from the clouds this morning again. Hmm, I wanted to see the morning sunshine over the horizon. On the way to No.38 Kongofuku-ji, I thought it was interesting that the pilgrims are supposed to walk on the sandy beach at …
Continue reading “Day 16: Walk to Cape Ashizuri & No.38 Kongofuku-ji”
I took a look at the lighthouse at the Cape Ashizuri and the place called “Tengu-no-Hana”. The sea was really blue and beautiful. There is a tunnel of camellia along the promenade around here, but unfortunately most of the flowers have fallen off. According to the landlord of Lodge Camellia, it looked like a red …