1,200km and 35 Days

The Shikoku Pilgrimage fundamentally traces the island’s coastline to visit 88 temples, yet the path also leads through steep, majestic mountains. Connecting these points results in a 1,200km trajectory. I spent 34 days walking the entire circuit on foot, and on the 35th day, I traveled to Mt. Koya via public transit to report the completion of my journey to Kobo Daishi.

The Resonance of 108: A Discovery in Retrospect

In reviewing my records for this digital archive, I was struck by a moving discovery. While my pilgrimage covers 107 unique sites, my total number of visits was exactly 108. This final count was reached when I returned to Temple No. 1, Ryozenji, for the Orei-mairi (thanksgiving visit) after my journey to Mount Koya. It was only then, looking back through the lens of time, that I realized the profound spiritual significance of this number.

In Buddhist tradition, 108 is a sacred number representing the total number of Bonno—the earthly desires or afflictions that cloud the human heart. It is said that by visiting 108 sacred sites, a pilgrim symbolically sheds these burdens. Typically, this is achieved by visiting the 88 main temples and the 20 *Bekkaku* temples. Although I had only visited 5 of the *Bekkaku* sites, the various Bangai and Okunoin temples I encountered along the way—combined with that final return to the very first temple—brought me to exactly 108 prayers. It felt like a quiet miracle; an unplanned alignment with the ancient heart of the trail.

This explains why, when I reached the final 88th temple, I didn’t yet feel the journey had ended. The true closure came only at that 108th visit back at Ryozenji. As I took off my Hakui (white pilgrim’s vestment) for the last time, a wave of pure fulfillment washed over me, leaving no room for regret.

In that moment, I finally grasped the essence of Hosshin (the awakening of the spirit). I realized that the pilgrimage doesn’t end with a destination; it settles into the soul once the circle is truly closed. What I thought was a simple act of gratitude turned out to be the final, necessary step to set my spirit free.

The 107 Sacred Locations Breakdown

Incense, Rituals, and Time

At each temple, 6 incense sticks are offered: 3 for the Main Temple and 3 for the Taishi-do, representing offerings for the “Sanze” (Three Worlds): past, present, and future. The ritual takes 20-30 minutes, encompassing bowing at the gate, bell ringing, purification, chanting the Heart Sutra, and receiving the Nokyo stamp. Over 528 sticks were lit throughout the journey.

5,000 Photos and 7kg Optimization

To preserve battery for critical usage such as navigation and document high-quality visuals, I relied on a SONY RX100 rather than my phone. To maintain a daily pace of 35km+, I aggressively minimized my gear to a 7kg base weight, even mailing home a hair dryer on day 2 which was intended for drying wet shoes & clothes. Every piece of equipment, from trekking clothes to electronics, was selected for its durability and extreme lightness.

Physical Evidence & Pace

The journey left its mark. The Kongozue staff was reduced by 15cm from paved roads & mountain trails, and a 6cm reduction in waistline was recorded through sheer physical exertion, maintaining a 35-38km daily average.

Investment Breakdown

Udon Henro: 9 Iconic Bowls

* “Udon Henro” is a unique pilgrimage style where the traveler explores the rich Udon culture of Kagawa (the “Udon Prefecture”) alongside the spiritual circuit.